Monday, January 15, 2018

Lotus leaf fried rice

Long, long ago, back when I first became entranced with the magic of China’s cuisines, this is a dish that really stood out. It is simply visually exciting. And for some strange reason it's something you rarely see.

But the thing is, lotus leaf fried rice has to be one of the most spectacular things you can spring on your dinner guests.

It is insanely easy and open to all sorts of variations, depending upon what you like and what is hiding in the fridge or freezer. I have a couple of recipes for fried rice in All Under Heaven that could easily slide in here. Lots of charcuterie would work well, too, as would a completely vegetarian filling. 

However, this time of year I like to hone in on pure comfort. For me, that means the most famous of Guangdong’s roster of ­chow faan dishes: Yangzhou fried rice, but with a couple of Hong Kong-style tweaks. 
The delicious stars of this show

Instead of ham, you get that sweet roast pork called char siu. This is balanced by fresh shrimp for sweetness and snap, a healthy dose of dried black mushrooms for their insane aroma, and nutty fresh soybeans to add more than a touch of color and a solid nuttiness. 

I do, of course, include a good amount of eggs for their yellow and their butteriness, but I cook them only partially before tossing them with the rice, so that much of the eggs end up wrapping themselves around the individual grains. 

I've changed this a bit from my previously-published recipe because I love the tidy bit of clumpiness that sushi-style rice provides here, making the serving of this fried rice from big old lotus leaves a whole lot easier. You might ask why you'd want to go to the extra step of using lotus leaves here. Well, in addition to being so unexpected and pretty, they also lend a gentle perfume to the rice, a sort of echo of summers past.

Line a bowl with the leaves
Another reason to find this recipe nothing short of fabulous is that this can be made a couple of days ahead of time. Yup. All you have to do is fry up the rice and pack it in the leaves. 

Let the package cool completely, cover, and refrigerate. Then, steam the lotus-wrapped rice about 40 minutes before you plan to serve it so that it’s hot and fresh. The only caveat is that the shrimp should only be barely cooked through, since they are going to be steamed and, thus, heated once again just before serving.

You can find whole dried lotus leaves in any good Chinese market, as well as online. They keep pretty much forever if stored in a dry, cool place. But check out my other recipes that call for lotus leaves in All Under Heaven—you’ll find that these aromatic leaves somehow disappear quickly as they scent everything from congee to chicken to pork. And now fried rice joins the club. 

Time to celebrate…
Fry eggs in the well

Lotus leaf fried rice
Héyè fàn 荷葉飯
Serves 4 to 6

About 6 cups | 800 g cooked cold sushi-style rice (see Tips)
2 or 3 dried lotus leaf soaked overnight (see Tips)
8 ounces | 225 g (3 or 4 large) plumped-up black mushrooms
Around 4 ounces | 120 g char siu (sweet roast pork)
Around 4 ounces | 120 g fresh or defrosted raw shrimp, cleaned and deveined
¼ cup | 60 ml fresh peanut or salad oil
1 green onion, trimmed and chopped
1 cup | 150 g defrosted, shelled green soybeans (maodou or edamame), or baby peas (see Tips)
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
Fluffy fried rice
2 large eggs
Sea salt, as needed
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Start this at least one day before you plan to serve it, although you can also have this in the fridge ready to steam for a couple of days. This is a very forgiving and versatile and accommodating dish (see the Tips), and so consider making this ahead of time for a party. Be sure the cooked rice is fully chilled before you proceed, as this will give you much lighter and tastier fried rice.

2. Toss the cold rice with your wet hands to break down the clumps into individual grains. Remove the stems from the mushrooms and cut them into ¼ inch | 5 mm cubes. Cut the char siu and shrimp into similarly sized cubes.
Pile it into the leaves

3. Set your wok over medium-high heat, and add the oil when pan is hot. Stir-fry the mushrooms until they take on a slightly golden edge, and then use a slotted spoon to remove them to a medium work bowl. Brown the char siu before adding it to that bowl. Stir-fry shrimp for only a few seconds, until they barely turn opaque, and then add them to the work bowl along with the defrosted soybeans or peas.

4. Add the green onions to oil in the wok and quickly fry these until fragrant. Turn up the heat to high and add the cold rice. Toss it frequently as you fry it. When the rice takes on a golden tinge and starts to pop a bit, make a well in the center of the rice all the way down to the bottom of the wok. Pour the sesame oil in the bottom of the well and then the beaten eggs. Stir the eggs as they cook down then, and when they are almost set, toss the rice and eggs together, since this will allow some of the eggs to coat the rice, while other bits remain separate. Toss in the salt, pepper, and the rest of the ingredients until they are evenly distributed. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. (If you are making this ahead of time, wait until the fried rice has cooled down to room temperature before adding the shrimp. Wrap the rice in the lotus leaf as described in Step 5, cover the stuffed leaf with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it until about 30 minutes before serving.)
Poke holes in the leaves

5. Prepare a large steamer—an old wok with a trivet on the bottom works well— and have a heatproof 2-quart | 2-liter bowl ready. Wipe the lotus leaves clean on both sides. Center the leaves in the bowl (one on top of the other) with the cut stem side son the bottom and the smooth green sides facing you. Lightly pack all of the fried rice into the leaves and fold the edges of the leaves over the rice. Place an 8-inch | 20-cm wide plate over the bowl, and then flip the bowl over onto the plate. Use a chopstick to poke around 8 or so holes in the top of the leaf so that steam can escape. Set the plate in your steamer and steam the fried rice over high heat for about 20 minutes, or 30 minutes if it has been chilled.

6. To serve, cut a lid out of the top of the leaf and then set this jauntily against the rice. Serve the rice by scooping it out of the leaf at the table.

Cut open the top

Any good quality rice works well in this dish. I like California-grown sushi rice or Thai jasmine rice, but whatever you like will do. Be sure not to add any oil or butter or salt to this. You just want plain old rice here. 

Soak a couple of extra leaves here because it's hard to tell how perfect the leaves are while they're dry, and so sometimes they will look a bit ratty once they're plumped up. I like to use two leaves here just to ensure that the rice is safely contained. 

Vegans and vegetarians should feel more than welcome to substitute whatever looks good. A variety of fresh and dried mushrooms would be great, as well as braised doufu, more vegetables, and so forth. Really, just think of this as spruced-up fried rice and let your imagination take over.

Monday, January 8, 2018

Cheesy pork fluff buns

I’m pretty passionate about these savory pastries, for the Taiwanese bakeries of my well-fed Taipei years back in the seventies and eighties offered them everywhere. 

Up on the main drags and down through the backstreets, they ranged from really good to downright fabulous, depending upon the genius of the local baker.

When made with care, these are sort of like ham and cheese sandwiches that went to heaven and grew wings. For, instead of ham, you get a nice mouthful of that crunchy, porky cotton known as rousong, and instead of a boring old slice of cheese, well, the cheese is baked into puff pastry. And everything is contained in a delicious egg dough. 

I mean, am I alone in thinking that this is downright brilliant?
Everything I want in a sandwich

Now for the bad news: I just cannot find good ones in any bakery anywhere anymore. Plain old puff pastry (and not very good pastry, at that) covers the top. Boring. A smidgen of pork fluff hides inside (and not very good pork fluff, at that). Boring. The bread lacks personality and flavor. Boring. And the puff pastry is never crisp and flavorful. Sacrilege. Last time I bought one, I took a bite and tossed it out, it was that bad.

These have to be made at home, at least until we get the Taiwanese-style bakeries around here to stop fooling around and back to making these with pride. And so, in the hopes of prodding this dream into reality, here is my recipe. As usual, I went a bit nuts, but if you get a chance to make a sammie just the way you want your sammie, why would you make your sammie any way else, I ask you?
Cheese & butter!

And so, there’s lots of cheese in the puff pastry. No other recipe I've been able to find does this anymore. In fact, no cheese at all is now the standard. Goodness knows why... I mean, that's the whole point of these buns! The name in Chinese literally starts with the word for “cheese,” for Pete's sake.

I’ve looked everywhere for a good recipe, but no one uses cheese in these things anymore, just puff pastry, and so I decided to tackle this. After much experimentation, I have the answer. Two (yes, two) kinds of cheese are layered into the puff pastry along with a smidgen more of butter. This permeates the pastry with cheesiness, while the butter acts as glue and helps amp up the puffiness factor.

You can use whatever hard cheese you like here in any combination. Please note the word “hard." You don’t want mozzarella and you don’t want Brie. It has to be dry enough to grate and it also has to be something that won’t turn gooey as it melts, since otherwise you end up with pizza-like buns and soggy puff pastry. 

The bouncy bread dough
No, you want that cheese to brown into pure crunchiness and solid flavor, so go with the hard cheeses. Something flavorful is great—the sharpness of Parmesan and cheddar, for example, contrasts nicely with the milder flavors hiding underneath in the bun itself. I wouldn’t recommend using expensive cheeses in these buns, as the shredded stuff from Trader Joe’s works just dandy.

For the puff pastry itself, I went the easy route and sprang for some frozen Pepperidge Farms. You can, of course, go totally homemade, but it’s really not necessary. A good quality frozen pastry will do just fine once it’s been tweaked a bit.

Now, for the filling: I couldn’t leave well enough alone there, either, could I? So, in addition to some storebought pork fluff, I tossed it with toasted sesame seeds for nuttiness, as well as  a little bit of oil to clump things together and add a touch of unctuousness. The sesame seeds really send this over the top with their lovely little explosions of flavor and texture. I am so proud.
Pack in the filling

Yes, I am more than a little bit obsessive. But as I keep saying, I love my job…

Cheesy pork fluff buns
Zhīshì ròusōng miànbāo  芝士肉鬆麵包
Makes 16 large buns

1½ cups | 300 ml warm water
½ cup | 50 g powdered milk
1 tablespoon bread yeast
2 tablespoons sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
4 cups | 600 g Chinese flour, plus about 1 cup | 150 g more for kneading
1½ teaspoons sea salt
2 tablespoons | 30 g unsalted butter, softened

Pleat the edges around the filling
1 sheet (about 8.5 ounces | 245 g) good quality frozen puff pastry, defrosted under a tea towel
A little extra flour
¼ cup | 55 g | ½ stick unsalted butter, softened
½ cup lightly packed | 60 g grated cheddar cheese
½ cups lightly packed | 60 g shredded Parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten, mixed with 1 teaspoon water
Black sesame seeds, as needed

1 cup | 150 g toasted sesame seeds (any color is ok)
¼ cup | 60 ml peanut or vegetable oil
Butter, cheese, cheese, butter
2 cups lightly packed | 130 g pork fluff (commercial is fine)

1. First make the dough: Mix the warm water, powdered milk, yeast, and sugar together in your food processor, stand mixer bowl, or a large work bowl. Give the yeast time to wake up and become very foamy, which should take around 20 to 30 minutes. If you don’t get a good head of foam, buy fresh yeast and start over.

2. Stir the egg, flour, salt, oil, and butter into the yeast mixture to form a soft dough. If you’re using a stand mixer, use the hook attachment; use a metal blade for the food processor; or, if you’re doing this by hand, flour a smooth work surface and dump the dough out on top. Quickly knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary to keep it from sticking, until it is smooth and bouncy. Roll the dough into a ball and lightly flour it. Cover the dough with a clean tea towel, stick the bowl over the top to help keep the dough moist, and wait until the dough has risen to at least twice its original size, which will take about an hour.
16 squares

3. While the dough is rising, make the crunchy cheesy topping: Prepare a smooth, clean work surface (see Tips) and sprinkle it lightly with flour. Have a rolling pin, pizza cutter (see Tips), and flour ready. Lay the defrosted puff pastry sheet out (it will be about 9 inches | 23 cm direct from the package) on the work surface and sprinkle it lightly with flour before rolling it into a 12 x 12 inch | 30 x 30 cm square. Use your pizza cutter to cut it in half to create 2 rectangles. Spread half of the softened butter over the puff pastry. Sprinkle half of both cheeses over the right half of the dough, and then flip the buttered side of the left piece of dough on top of the cheesy side. Gently roll this rectangle out until it is more or less a 12 x 24 inch | 30 x 60 cm rectangle.

4. Again, use your pizza cutter to slice this in half to make 2 squares. Spread the rest of the butter on the right-hand square, sprinkle it with the rest of the cheese, and lay the other square on top. Gently roll this out to make it even. Cut this into 16 more or less even squares (3 vertical cuts and 3 horizontal cuts). Cover these with a clean tea towel.

First egg wash
5. Now prepare the filling: Toss together all of the ingredients until they sort of stick together. That’s it.

6. Cut the dough into 16 even pieces. Toss them with flour and cover with a dry tea towel to prevent them from drying out. Cover 2 baking sheets with either Silpat or parchment paper. Heat your oven to 350°F | 175°C and set 1 rack near the center.

7. Working on one piece at a time, and working on a lightly floured surface, roll a piece into a disc about 5 inches| 13 cm in diameter, with the edges rolled out thinner than the center. The best way to fill these breads is to pack one portion (3 tablespoons | 20 g) into a small cup. Then, with the disc of dough centered on the forefinger and thumb of your non-dominant hand, push the center of the dough down gently into your fist to make a little basket. Dump the lump of filling into the center of the dough, and press down on it so that it too sits more or less inside your fist. Bring up the edges around it and pleat them as you go to seal the filling in well. Shape the bun into a round with the smooth side on top. Repeat with 7 more of the buns and filling so that 1 baking sheet is filled. Let the buns rise for about 15 minutes.
Second egg wash + sesame seeds

8. Brush the egg wash all over each of the buns. Set a square of the topping on each of the buns and then brush these again with the egg wash. Finally, sprinkle some black sesame seeds in the center of each bun. Set the pan in the center of the oven and bake for about 18 to 20 minutes, or until the buns are a lovely golden brown. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the remaining 8 pieces of dough while the first batch is cooking. Cool slightly and eat. These freeze well and only need to be heated up again before serving.


This recipe is a whole lot easier than it looks. Do it once, and you will have it down pat.

Rolling pin & silicone mat
Whenever I work with pie pastry or puff pastry now, I’ve come to rely on a nonstick pastry mat to keep things corralled. These are silicone and slip-proof, plus they are all marked up with measurements, so I don’t need to whip out my ruler all the time. Highly recommended for those of you who love to bake.

Also great for these pastry sessions is a large French rolling pin. This has tapered ends, which makes it easier to direct pressure in certain areas as you shape a big piece of dough. Again, this is something you should consider adding to your culinary arsenal.

Use a pizza cutter for slicing up the dough, rather than a knife. Only light pressure is needed, which will save your work surface, especially if you have opted to use a silicone mat.

Monday, January 1, 2018

Florence Lin

Happy New Year to one and all! I hope that 2018 will bring you luck and love and lots of good things to eat. 

Thank you so much on endless loop for reading my blog, sending me notes, and letting me know I'm not just writing on the wind. You all are the best!

Today there won't be a recipe. Instead, I'd like to tell you a bit about someone very special to me and to the world of Chinese culinary knowledge.

Auntie Shen cooking at her home in Rossmoor
My lovely friend and mentor, Florence Lin, just passed away. I wrote about her last week, in a strange bit of coincidence. This wonderful old lady I called Auntie Shen was as delicate as a bird and not much taller than my ear, but she vibrated with life, had an outsized personality, and ate with a happy passion. Her life was an ode to living large.

Auntie Shen refused to marry the guy her family had selected for her. Instead, she joined the Chinese army during what we call WWII and what the Chinese call the War Against Japanese Aggression--both sound about right, fwiw--and carved out her own path as a modern woman. In peacetime, she went on to have two beautiful daughters and eventually travel with her family to the United States. 
A beauty at 60

But what she is most remembered for are her cookbooks. At a time when few Chinese Americans were taken seriously as food writers, she got published. Again and again. 

In fact, if you want to add some great cookbooks to your collection, please check out her titles. And though it is rarely mentioned (except here--thanks Grace Young!), Auntie Shen was also the genius behind the Chinese cookbook in the Time Life Foods of the World Recipes

This makes me more than a bit upset. Her name doesn't appear on the cover or, for that matter, much of anywhere inside the book. And yet she wrote all of those recipes. 

Let me put that out there for you and let it sink in. 

See her name? I don't...
But in spite of the fact that she received almost no credit, this is another book you should add to your shelves because it really is amazing. 

Back when I was desperately poor and couldn't afford to buy it, I borrowed a copy from the library and photocopied the whole recipe booklet on an office copier at night (hey, it was free), and then studied it from front to back. I've preserved those yellowing, spattered, and dogeared sheets as a reminder of how much she taught me and how much I really and truly loved that book.

True to form, when I showed that sheaf of messy pages to their author, she cracked up at finally finding a new edition for her work.

With Thomas Keller at the IACP awards
I was lucky enough to call her my friend for close to a decade, and I count my lucky stars for that. She was a model and a mentor, as well as a heck of a lot of fun to cook with and eat with and talk with for hours on the phone. You know, everything a great girlfriend should be. 

That photo at the top was taken in San Francisco in 2013, when the IACP gave Auntie Shen their milestone award for her contributions to understanding China's cuisines. I never saw her glow as much as she did that night. The photo to the right with the French Laundry's Thomas Keller is from her niece's blog, which also has a great introduction to her books and her life.

I was able to get Auntie Shen and the great Cecilia Chiang (known around here as Auntie Sun) together for a spectacular lunch and long conversation with a reporter from The San Francisco Chronicle,. Surprisingly, although they are almost the same age and in the same field and lived in the Bay Area, these two masters had never met before. Much of their conversation was preserved in the newspaper account, but my favorite part didn't get recorded...
Two giants of Chinese gastronomy

As soon as they sat down, they sized each other up in a very Chinese way. They soon discovered they were both born in the Year of the Monkey, so the next question was, of course, what month? Auntie Shen won by about a couple of weeks, if memory serves, so she became the elder sister at the table. 

Anyway, the good news is that she was 97 when she left us. That's almost a century old, by my calculations. And so she lived a full life. She passed on with her family and loved ones nearby in upstate New York, and probably ended up with more good friends than I have acquaintances. 

Her beautiful hands

In her memory and also as a favor to yourself, cook from her books. Read them, too, from cover to cover. They are all fantastic. 

Top photo: (c) Flora Lin, 2013

Photo with Thomas Keller: (c) Flora Lin, 2013
Photo with Cecilia Chiang: (c) San Francisco Chronicle, 2013

Monday, December 25, 2017

Mushroom turnovers

One of my all-time favorite cookbooks was written by one of my all-time favorite people: FlorenceLin’s Complete Book of Chinese Noodles, Dumplings and Breads. Now in her mid-nineties and living in upstate New York, Auntie Shen (that’s what we call her) is still as vibrant and funny and full of delight with the world as she’s always been.

I love her book because it is so reliable and so full of the things I adore eating. Very trailblazing for its time, her cookbook covers a lot more than just Cantonese cuisine, and instead travels over much of China in a quest for great things to cook and serve. So, if you have lived in places like the Mainland or Taiwan for any amount of time, or if you are a sophisticated diner, you will find many of your most beloved dishes in here.

Auntie Shen
Auntie Shen recalled her recipe for curry beef turnovers during one of our endless conversations about food. In between peals of laughter, she told me about how she made endless batches of these back when she lived in New York City, and Craig Claiborne even mentioned them when he wrote an interview with her. She included this recipe and the story in her Chinese Noodles cookbook, of course. What I want to mention right here is that the recipe right after that one is for her mushroom puffs. (Both of them are of course incredibly delicious.)

Over the years I’ve made some adjustments to these already perfect recipes in my search to make them more the way that I used to enjoy them in Taipei’s and Hong King’s dim sum parlors back in the day. No matter what else got tossed or added, I have always preserved one of Auntie Shen’s secret weapons: mashed potatoes.

Mashed potatoes
Probably a holdover from these little turnovers’ ancestral roots as Indian samosas (after all, that’s what they are), the mashed potatoes insert a lovely creaminess into the mixture and also hold things together admirably while you are crimping the pastry together. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

This recipe makes 8 dozen, which seems like a lot, but I always double it, especially this time of the year when we find ourselves at so many parties, both here and at friends’ homes. That’s almost 200 little turnovers. I know. But they can be made over a day or a week, and they are vegetarian, which solves lots of guest preference problems right then and there, since just about anyone who can eat wheat can then enjoy them.

The mushroom filling
I freeze the puffs right after I shape them, and then dab them with an egg glaze before popping them in the oven a few minutes before the guests arrive. They end up being incredible holiday lifesavers, and they never fail to please.

Mushroom turnovers
Xiānggū yóusū jiăo 香菇油酥角
Hong Kong
Makes 8 dozen
1½ ounces | 40 g dried black mushrooms
Water, as needed
1 medium | 150 g Yukon Gold potato
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon finely minced ginger
Cut out the rounds of dough
1 medium | 150 g yellow onion, finely diced
3½ ounces | 100 g winter bamboo shoots, fresh or defrosted, finely diced
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons regular soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons finely minced yacai preserved vegetable or winter vegetable, optional
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup | 60 g toasted sesame seeds

4 cups | 600 g all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out the dough
1 teaspoon sea salt
¾ cup | 115 g | 1½ sticks unsalted butter, chilled
¾ cup | 120 g white shortening, chilled
About ⅔ cup | 160 ml chilled water

Spray oil
1 large egg lightly beaten with 1 teaspoon water

Marbles of filling
1. Start this recipe at least 2 days ahead of time. First make the filling: Soak the mushrooms in cool water overnight. When they are fully plumped up, gently squeeze them dry, remove the stems, and chop the caps into a fine dice. Cut the peeled or unpeeled potato into 1-inch | 2 cm cubes, and boil the chunks until you can flake them with a fork. Drain the potato and mash it.

2. Set a wok over medium heat before adding the sesame oil and butter. When the fat starts to shimmer, add the garlic, ginger, and onion. Stir these around and cook them gently until the onions take on a golden tinge. Add the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, optional yacai, and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Cook these together until the liquid has been absorbed and the vegetables are cooked. Remove the wok from the heat and mix in the mashed potatoes and sesame seeds. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cool the mixture to room temperature and then chill it.

Into the freezer they go
3. Next make the pastry: Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl or food processor. Cut the butter and shortening into small pieces, toss them with the flour, and then either cut the fats into the flour or pulse them together until the fat is pea-sized or smaller, but be sure not to overwork it. Quickly toss in or pulse in the ice water to form a dough; don’t add any more as soon as you see it sticking together. Turn the dough out onto a smooth work surface. Use the heel of one hand to smear out small handfuls of dough, and use a pastry scraper in the other hand to gather it all up into a mound. Repeat this one more time to turn the fat into flake-forming layers in the dough. Divide the dough into 4 even pieces, shape these into rectangular pillows, wrap in plastic, and chill, preferably overnight, as this will give the flour time to absorb the liquid and the gluten to relax.

4. Working on one piece of dough at a time, lightly sprinkle your work surface and the piece of dough with flour. Roll the dough out until it is about 12 inches | 30 cm square. Use a round 2½ inch | 6 cm cutter to stamp out as many circles as you can. Cover the dough circles with a clean tea towel and repeat with the rest of the dough until you have about 96 pieces. You can combine the raggedy scraps as you go and use those, as well. Store the dough in the refrigerator if your kitchen is hot, and always keep the dough covered to prevent it from drying out and cracking.
An egg glaze makes these glossy
5. Have a few baking sheets ready and line them with plastic wrap. Set up your work area with the bowl of filling, a small spoon, a small bowl of cold water, a fork, and a damp towel for wiping your hands as you go. To wrap the turnovers, wet a finger and run it around the edge of a dough circle to help it seal tightly later on, and then set a ¾ inch | 2 cm marble of filling in the center. Close the dough over this to form a half-moon shape. Press the edge closed with your fingers, and then crimp the edge with a fork. Place the finished turnover on a lined sheet. Repeat with the rest of the filling and dough. Try not to allow the unbaked turnovers to touch so that they don’t stick together, and lay another piece of plastic wrap on top if you want to freeze two layers at the same time. Set the sheet in your freezer, and then later on pop the frozen turnovers into a resealable freezer bag.

6. To bake these, place a rack in the center of your oven and set it for 400°F | 200 °C. Line a baking sheet with Silpat, foil, or parchment paper and spray it with oil. Place as many of the frozen turnovers on the pan as you want to serve and brush the tops with the egg glaze. Bake the turnovers for about 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot.