I know, I know, this is really about mushrooms, not actual monkey heads. But I got you to look, right?
This is actually a recipe that puts the spotlight
on the Chinese mushroom known as the “monkey head,” and you have to admit,
that’s a pretty good name – they’re cute and fuzzy and it sounds so silly, so
what’s not to like?
Known in the West by a number of names, including
the much more boring “pom pom mushroom,” this actually belongs to the “tooth
fungus” group, showing that we are not totally bankrupt in the imagination
department. The members on our shores tend to grow in long, toothy strands, though,
hence the name.
 |
| Dried monkey head mushrooms |
But in China, the monkey head mushroom, or Hericium erinaceus, is very, very
common, especially (and almost exclusively) in its dried state. And like so
many of China’s fungi, this one is beloved not only for its lovely flavor and
texture, but also for its medicinal properties.
It’s been shown to be a good antioxidant, among other things,
so give it a whirl.
You can find these golfball-size ‘shrooms in most
Chinese grocery stores, dried goods markets, and herbal shops. They often come
in packages.
Since you won’t be able to fondle them except
through the plastic, go to a place with a fast turnover, if possible. The
mushrooms should be a pale brown and beige, look plump, and not be busted into
pieces. Shake the bag around a bit to search for bugs, while you’re at it.
Then, once you open up the bag, store the mushrooms in a jar in the pantry,
where they will keep for a couple of months, much like any other dried
mushroom.
These are easy to reconstitute: rinse the mushrooms
thoroughly, place them in a work bowl, cover with warm water, and give them a
couple of hours or even overnight to plump up. Squeeze out the water (being
sure to save it, as well as the soaking liquid) like they were little sponges,
as this makes them easier to handle. Trim off the stems and then slice the
balls thickly.
 |
| Fresh "pom pom mushrooms" |
Monkey head mushrooms can be added to all sorts of
braises and soups – or even a very friendly chicken
potpie - but know that your meatless friends will be especially
delighted with them, as these mushrooms have an almost meaty taste and texture.
And so, I’ve provided my go-to chicken stock recipe below, but have also
offered vegan alternatives.
My secret ingredient here is oyster sauce. Or,
should I say, it was the husband’s suggestion. This adds great depth to the
soup, and since the monkey head mushrooms possess a slight bitterness, the
richness and sweetness of the oyster sauce balances this just right.
The salt, sugar, and oyster sauce are all
approximations, as the final flavor will require you to taste and adjust.
Chicken stock – fresh or packaged – has different levels of salt and seasoning,
and even strength of the chicken flavor, so taste as you go. You can sneak in
some chicken fat, too, for extra mouthfeel and body, if you’re going the
chicken route.
And again, do feel free to monkey around with this.
(Sorry.) It’s a home-style recipe that is meant to be adapted and adjusted. You
can use less mushrooms and more stock, sub in different kinds of dried
mushrooms, add more vegetables – whatever you like.
 |
| Plumped up 'shrooms |
Monkey head soup
Hóutóugū qīngtāng 猴頭菇清湯
Therapeutic foods
Serves 4 to 6
4 dried monkey head mushrooms
Water, as needed
10 thin slices fresh ginger
½ cup (120 ml) Shaoxing rice wine
2 quarts (2 L) unsalted or lightly
salted chicken stock or mushroom stock
1 tablespoon (or more) rock sugar
2 tablespoons (or more) oyster sauce
or vegetarian oyster sauce
1. Start this at least a day ahead
of time, if you can, as the soup improves by sitting overnight. Rinse the
mushrooms, soak them for at least a couple of hours in warm water until they
are very soft, and then squeeze out the liquid back into the bowl. (Reserve the
soaking liquid.)
 |
| Slice the squeezed mushrooms |
2. Cut off the stems and slice the
mushrooms into thick (½ inch / 1 cm) pieces. Place them in a large saucepan and
add the rest of the ingredients, as well as the strained soaking liquid. Bring
the pot to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook the pot uncovered for
at least 5 hours. Top off the pot with boiling water to maintain around 1 quart
(1 L) of stock.
3. Taste the soup and adjust the
seasoning as needed (see headnotes). Serve hot.
