
Cow’s milk is a true rarity in the traditional
cuisines of China, although it has become more common over the past couple of decades as a beverage or as a major ingredient in things like ice cream and yogurt. Back when I was a student in Taiwan during the late seventies, though, the
only milk to be had was powdered, and seeing Klim powdered milk in its iconic
big yellow can still makes me nostalgic. Over the following decades, fresh milk made quite a headway in local diets, mainly because parents
wanted to increase their calcium intake, and also because who can argue with the joys of ice cream?
But Shunde is a completely different bird,
culinarily speaking. Milk has traditionally not been consumed fresh there, but
rather cooked and used as part of a dish, rather than drunk as a beverage.
A lot of this has to do with the Chinese preference for hot foods over cold, but also because so many Chinese people have lactose intolerance. Cooking will not destroy the lactose in milk, but the relatively small amount of milk that is generally used in Shunde’s foods is another reason why it has become an acceptable – and most definitely delicious – part of one of Guangdong’s most delightful cuisines.
A lot of this has to do with the Chinese preference for hot foods over cold, but also because so many Chinese people have lactose intolerance. Cooking will not destroy the lactose in milk, but the relatively small amount of milk that is generally used in Shunde’s foods is another reason why it has become an acceptable – and most definitely delicious – part of one of Guangdong’s most delightful cuisines.
Called "double-skinned milk" in Chinese, I haven't a clue where the two skins are, as only one seems to form whenever I've made it, which is when you first heat up the milk. As every cocoa lover knows, that skin sticks to your lips at the wrong time, and to be honest, there never really is a good time to have milk skin glued to your face. Anyway, that's the moniker it's stuck with, so who knows...
Most directions for this dish demand that you preserve that skin and return it to the custard just before the final steaming. Honestly, I've tried it many ways and can't see the difference whether I mix the skin back into milk (as in the recipe below) or strain it out or fastidiously reserve it for the top. And so, out goes that step.
The customary recipe for this custard calls for nothing more than whole milk, egg whites, and sugar. And so, unlike just about any other custard recipe out there, this classic sweet is pure white. It’s therefore stunning when served with contrasting colors, like red raspberries or in a black bowl or with just a drizzle of honey on top.
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Divide the custard among the bowls |
Most directions for this dish demand that you preserve that skin and return it to the custard just before the final steaming. Honestly, I've tried it many ways and can't see the difference whether I mix the skin back into milk (as in the recipe below) or strain it out or fastidiously reserve it for the top. And so, out goes that step.
The customary recipe for this custard calls for nothing more than whole milk, egg whites, and sugar. And so, unlike just about any other custard recipe out there, this classic sweet is pure white. It’s therefore stunning when served with contrasting colors, like red raspberries or in a black bowl or with just a drizzle of honey on top.
But because no yolks were used, this custard is also exceptionally mild in taste. You won’t register much beyond the flavor of the
milk and sugar. For that reason, use only really good quality whole
milk here. You want that richness to shine through.
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Egg whites only |
People who are getting over a cold or in some other kind of recovery will probably enjoy this, since it's pure protein, easy to digest, and quite delicious. According to Chinese medicine, you'd want to serve it hot or at least very warm, since cold foods are considered detrimental when the body is weak.
That being said, be assured that you can serve this custard chilled, and that makes this especially perfect for a small tumble of fresh fruit on top. A couple of cookies on the side wouldn't hurt, either.
This is not at all what Shunde's grandmas do, but I won’t tell them if you won’t.
Shuāngpí níunăi 雙皮牛奶
Guangdong
Serves 4
1¾ cups (400 ml) fresh whole milk of the best quality
1¾ cups (400 ml) fresh whole milk of the best quality
2 tablespoons sugar, or 2 teaspoons sugar for the custard plus more sweetener for the topping (see
headnotes)(see Tips)
Pinch of salt
2 large egg whites, lightly beaten
1. Use a heatproof cup for measuring the milk. Add
the sugar and salt to the milk, and then microwave it until the milk is very
hot and a skin has formed on top (about 4 minutes on high - see Tips). Let the milk cool
down until it is no more than warm to the touch, as you do not want it to
curdle the egg whites.
2. Gently whisk the cooled milk into
the egg whites. Strain the milk mixture back into the measuring cup and discard
any foam and solids in the strainer.
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Strain out the foam and solids |
Tips
If you want to use a sweet garnish like turbinado
sugar, honey, maple syrup, fruit, etc., use no more than 2 teaspoons sugar in
the custard itself.
Keep an eye on the milk while you heat it in Step 1 if you are not quite sure of its power. You can always microwave the milk in 1 minute spurts if you are at all unclear of how long your microwave takes, since you don't want the milk to boil over and make a mess and ruin your day.
Keep an eye on the milk while you heat it in Step 1 if you are not quite sure of its power. You can always microwave the milk in 1 minute spurts if you are at all unclear of how long your microwave takes, since you don't want the milk to boil over and make a mess and ruin your day.
I've been on a hiatus from reading much of anything online lately, and I come back to see this, and it absolutely made. My. Day. I was in Shunde two years ago for a choral competition, and the 雙皮牛奶 with ginger was so soothing to a bad throat! I'm so glad to see a recipe for it, I've been thinking about it lately!
ReplyDelete(Also, my family loves your Xinjiang Cilantro Salad. Even the non-cilantro eaters (me). It is now a firm keeper on our Chinese New Year menu for Reunion Dinner.)
Oooooh. Now I'm going to have to make it again with ginger. Excellent idea and great excuse for dessert...
DeleteThanks for the super kind words!
We tried it plain and with ginger, and the one with ginger /really/ was outstanding. Something about the tang that just perked up the entire taste. I'm getting braces put in this weekend so this is going to be one of my recuperation recipes!
ReplyDeleteGlad to be of help. Hope you feel well soon!
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