New Year cake as approved by Mr. Enzo

Last Thursday was the first day of the Year of the Ram, and homemade sweets are definitely in order for this two week celebration. Some tasty candied almonds might be the perfect offering for family and friends, or perhaps a plate of laughing doughnut holes. The main point is that people should have a wonderful time, and food always is important to achieving that, at least in our home.

One of our favorite New Year sweets is this, a Cantonese steamed cake that is lightly sweet and takes all of about 5 minutes to put together. This fluffy confection looks very much like an English sponge cake, so my guess that Chinese cooks transmogrified a European recipe to fit local tastes, for soy sauce gives the cake its rich color and a subtle suggestion of xianwei to this dim sum teahouse classic.

Never content to let good enough alone, I was tweaking this recipe lately, trying to make it perfect with just the right balance of sweet-salty-creamy, and so I ended up with a whole bunch of different takes on this recipe. The last two contenders were submitted to our resident food critic, 20-month-old Mr. Enzo, who declared this one the winner in the accompanying video.

Not only that, but when reviewing this short film, he said “好吃！” (Delicious!) – and I am proud to say that this was the first time he ever said that – as he recalled his meal. My favorite part in the clip is when he lingers over the two versions before settling on the pale cake. Yes, the boy has taste.

Malay Sponge Cake

Mǎlāgāo 馬拉糕

Beat eggs until light

Guangdong and Hong Kong

Serves 8

Spray oil

2 large eggs, room temperature

6 tablespoons sugar

5 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

7 tablespoons milk (whole or low fat)

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon regular soy sauce

1 cup cake flour

2½ teaspoons baking powder

1. Heat the water under a steamer to boiling, then reduce the heat to low. Spray an 8- or 9-inch round cake pan with oil and line the bottom with parchment paper.

Steam until done

2. Use a hand mixer to whisk the eggs until light and airy, and then slowly beat in the sugar, oil, milk, vanilla, and soy sauce. In a separate bowl toss together the flour and baking powder, then beat this into the egg mixture until the batter is smooth. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and steam the cake for around 15 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan, then remove it and cut it into wedges.

  

Delectable Chinese cupcakes that are not at all twee

Steamed cakes are popular treats throughout southern China, and variations abound. Dim sum carts will often include things like Malay Cake, with its moist crumb, or the winy Lunjiao cake that has long, tube-like holes perforating the stellar white batter.

Fāgāo come in different shapes, sizes, and flavors throughout the lands south of the Yangtze, but in Taiwan, though, this name refers to the little cupcakes that burst open with enthusiastic petals as they are steamed.

Lightly sweet and completely fat-free, these are delicate teatime snacks for adults, although I’ve never seen a kid turn one down. In fact, the taste and color of these little unfrosted cupcakes can be played with to suit the preferences of whomever you are serving.

Floral beauties

For example, this the first two photos here use black (aka dark brown) sugar, but white sugar will yield a plain palette that can then be adorned with hues from every stop on the rainbow. If you grind up green tea into a fine powder and add a bit of green food coloring, you will be rewarded with delicate cakes the color of ferns, and their gentle tea aroma will echo that of a hot cup of Longjing. Or, you can sprinkle in cocoa powder and top each cup of batter with some walnuts to please the child in everyone. Fruit juices can be substituted for the water, and the sugar then adjusted to compensate for the sweetness in the juice. The list is endless.

One thing to note is that your steamer should be tall enough to allow the cupcakes to rise without smacking into the cover. Fill the cups no more than ¾ full and make sure that there is at least 1 inch clearance above the cups.

Green tea, fruit juice & black sugar

Steamed cupcakes 
Fāgāo 發糕  
Southern Fujian, Taiwan

Makes 5 to 8 small cakes, depending upon the cups you use

Spray oil

½ cup white sugar

1¼ cups filtered water

6 tablespoons Indica rice flour (not glutinous or sticky rice flour)

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¾ cup cake flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon sea salt

Optional flavorings, such as maple extract, powdered tea, cocoa powder, etc.

Optional garnishes, such as sliced nuts, raisins, goji berries, cubed fruit, etc.

1. Set eight 6-ounce (or five to six 8-ounce) bowls in a steamer; straight-sided (or nearly straight-sided) bowls work best, as they help the cakes rise evenly. Spray the inside of the bowls lightly with the oil.

Batter sprinkled with goji berries

2. Place the sugar, water, rice flour, cornstarch, cake flour, and baking powder in a large measuring cup with a spout (or use a blender). Add the cooled sugar water and mix only until blended and smooth. Divide the batter evenly among the bowls.

3. Set the covered steamer basket with the bowls  over boiling water and steam them without peeking (around 20 minutes for the smaller cups and 30 minutes for the larger; if in doubt, err on the side of steaming them longer, as this won’t hurt them).

4. When you take a look at the end of this time, the cupcakes should have risen and they all should have formed petals on top. Use a bamboo skewer or a toothpick to check one; it should come out fairly clean. Remove the cupcakes from the steamer and serve warm. They can also be removed from their bowls once they are cool and then refrigerated. Steam them once more inside some clean bowls to refresh them before serving.

Tips

Light, fluffy & delish

Indica rice flour is simply ground plain rice, such as sushi rice. It lends little stickiness in the cooked product. You can find this in Chinese grocery stores with the name "Indica rice flour," "Chai Lai Flour," or "Zailai Rice Flour," but the best thing to do is match up the Chinese characters for  在來米粉 zàilái mĭfěn.

For the green tea cupcakes, grind 3 tablespoons dried green tea leaves in a blender with the dry ingredients before adding the water. Two drops of green food coloring will give the right hue, and I sprinkled the tops with Toasted Sesame Seeds.

For fruit-flavored cakes, use sweetened or unsweetened juice of any flavor instead of the water and decrease the sugar accordingly. (Taste the batter and add more sugar if necessary.) Fold in some small cubes of fruit, if you like. In the photo just above here, Sour Plum Infusion was used instead of water, the sugar was decreased, and goji berries were sprinkled on top.

Indica rice & cake flours

This recipe makes light, fluffy cakes, as shown in the green and tan cupcakes. If you prefer a denser, stickier texture and the shiny tops as shown in the brown cupcakes, use 10 tablespoons Indica rice flour, ½ cup cake flour, and 1 teaspoon baking powder; all of the other ingredients remain unchanged.

The kind of cake flour you use will  have a marked effect on the final cakes: superfine white flour like Softasilk gives you an exceptionally fluffy cake with a very high rise. Unbleached cake flour will be slightly heavier, but the taste will be nuttier. The green tea cupcakes here were made with unbleached cake flour and so are a bit flatter, but still very tasty.

China's answer to gingerbread

Dessert has a different meaning in China than it does in the West.  While Chinese meals are usually capped with a bowl of fresh fruit, here we often like a nice bit of sweetness to round out a feast and place a final satisfied smile on everyone's face.  Dessert in the U.S. can be anything from a birthday cake to a stack of chocolate chip cookies to a bowl of ice cream.  

Traditionally, though, none of those occur in Chinese cuisine. Birthdays might be celebrated there with a bowl of long noodles and an egg, symbolizing long life and rebirth, but nobody would gather around and sing a birthday song or stick a couple of candles in the soup.  

Nowadays, though, cakes, cookies, and ice cream have become beloved parts of everyday life throughout China, especially in the more cosmopolitan areas, and strains of "Zhu ni shengri kuaile" can be heard while the birthday boy or girl (called the shou xing, or god of longevity) waits to blow out the candles.

Caramel gooeyness at the bottom

But as I've noted here before, sweets have always been a welcome part of China's many cuisines, and some of the most delightful hail from Guangdong province.  Although ovens still tend to be unusual kitchen equipment except for the more Westernized cooks, that hasn't stopped people there from making some seriously wonderful cakes.  These are almost always served as part of afternoon tea, rather than after a dinner, but don't let that stop you from eating them as a postprandial treat or even for breakfast. 

Take the moist and delectable Malay Cake as an example.  Subtly sweet and almost disarmingly simple, this is a gentle tan cake that is slightly gooey on the bottom where the sugar settles and takes on a caramel flavor, while the upper portion is a light sponge.  I've made many a Malay Cake over the years, and this is the recipe that has gradually evolved into my favorite version, the one that my father-in-law used to munch on happily with a cup of his ever-present jasmine tea, and the one that I most often make when I need to bring something over to a Chinese friend's house for afternoon snacks.

Secret ingredient #1

And if that first bite seems to ring some memory bells, that is because Malay Cake has all the texture and mouth feel of a great gingerbread cake with none of the spices. But that shouldn't stop you from adding whatever spices you want.  Although hardly traditional, this cake could easily be given Westernized fillips such as handfuls of raisins or chopped nuts or a spoonful of ground ginger.  You could even frost it if you liked.  But as for me, I like it just the way it is. 

A note on serving sizes:  If you are setting this out as a dessert, you could easily serve 8 to 12.  For a Chinese-style tea treat, make the cake in the square pan and then cut it up into 1-inch squares; this is easiest if you cut the cake into 2-inch squares and then cut each square into quarters.  A tea treat is never too large, and is best if it can be consumed graciously in one or two modest bites.  Any leftovers will freeze perfectly in a freezer bag and will only need to be defrosted.

The only unusual ingredient here (if you're not British, that is) is Bird's custard powder, probably because so many of these great dessert recipes were either created or fussed around with in Hong Kong.  Many Cantonese and/or Hong Kongnese desserts call for this ingredient, and it lends a nice, gentle flavor.  If you can't find it, just add an extra egg yolk to the other eggs, and the cake will still taste delicious.  And the addition of soy sauce might raise some eyebrows, but it's there mainly to lend a nice golden color to the cake and to supply an almost undetectable savory undertone that cuts the sweetness.


Malay cake  
Mala gao  馬拉糕  
Guangdong

Perfect for teatime or dessert

Makes one 8-inch square cake or one 9-inch round cake

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon white whole-wheat flour (or regular white flour)
1⅔ cups Sucanat or firmly packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons powdered milk
¼ cup filtered water
¼ teaspoon sea salt
2½ tablespoons Bird's custard powder (see note above)
4 large eggs, beaten until frothy
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ cup neutral tasting oil (canola or vegetable)1 teaspoon dark soy sauce

1. Start this cake at least 3 hours before you want to serve it.  First, prepare the pan by oiling it and lining the bottom of the pan with parchment or wax paper.  Lightly oil the paper, too.

The batter bubbles as it rests

2. Sift the flour, sugar, powdered milk, water, salt, and custard powder (if using) together using a sieve or sifter to break up any lumps, and place the dry ingredients into a medium work bowl.  Mix in the beaten eggs using a whisk until the batter is smooth.  Set the batter aside in a cool place for at least one hour (and up to 12) so that the flour can absorb the liquid; cover the bowl with plastic wrap and store it in the refrigerator if you are going to let it rest for more than 2 hours.  The batter will probably become covered with bubbles as soon as you stop stirring, and this is fine.


3. Before you proceed to the final steps, prepare your steamer.  Fill it up with an inch or two of water and set it up so that the cake doesn't sit in the water, but rather is surrounded by steam.  Bring the steamer to a full boil while you finish up the batter.

4. Sprinkle the baking powder and baking soda over the batter and whisk the batter until the powders are fully incorporated.  Then, stir in the oil and soy sauce until the batter is smooth once again.  

A very good excuse for afternoon tea

5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, and use a rubber spatula to scrape off all of the batter into the pan.  Steam the cake in a covered steamer over medium-high heat for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  (The cake will rise up about 3/4 of an inch above the pan and then deflate slightly as it cools.)  

6. Remove the cake from the steamer, let it cool on a cake rack, and then loosen the edges with a paring knife.  Turn the cake out on the cake rack and gently peel off the paper.  When the cake is completely cool. cut it with a serrated bread knife, wiping it off as needed.  Cover the cake with plastic wrap until serving time to keep it moist.