Better than popcorn

I’m proud to say that this is a recipe I thought up all by myself, and I’m so proud. 

It stars cauliflower. I used to loathe this vegetable and could never understand who in the world would bother to a) buy it, b) eat it, and c) why. But then I discovered roasting, and suddenly cauliflower became one of my favorite things in the world.

This all has to do with texture and flavor. Boiled or even stir-fried cauliflower is so boring. Sorry, but it really is. Not much going on there at all. 

But toss those florets in oil and roast them? That leads to sheer nirvana. 

We’d been eating heads of cauliflower for years ever since I figured this out a couple of decades ago. 

Vegetable's answer to clouds

I’d roast it, toss on some salt or something, and we’d happily snack on cauliflower like popcorn. 

The crispy-edged pieces are particularly delightful, since they virtually fry up in the oven into absolute perfection. It’s truly a terrific way to devour a massive amount of vegetables with alacrity.

But then, when confronted one day with a gorgeous cloud of cauliflower, my eyes drifted over to the pantry and settled upon my big old can of Chinese satay sauce, and the combination sounded brilliant. So, I roasted the cauliflower until it was almost done, tossed it with an amped-up satay sauce, and the results were beyond delicious.

Select heads of cauliflower that are heavy for their size, as this means they’re fresh and haven’t dried out yet. Look at the leaves, which should be green and happy, as well as the surface of the white florets, which ought to be as unblemished as possible. Trim off the very bottom, but use all the rest, even the core. It truly is completely edible. 

I'll happily eat the whole thing

Besides, once you try this recipe, you’ll not want to waste a morsel.

Roasted cauliflower with Chinese satay sauce chez Huang

Huángjiā shāchá kăo yēcàihuā 黃家沙茶烤椰菜花

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

1 head cauliflower

½ cup | 125 ml peanut or salad oil

½ cup | 125 ml Chinese satay sauce or shacha (see Note)

2 tablespoons regular soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

6 cloves garlic, minced

4 scallions, trimmed and chopped

1. Place the rack in the center of your oven and set the oven to 400ºF | 200ºC. Have a large rimmed baking sheet ready. 

Cut into florets

2. Rinse the cauliflower and shake it more or less dry. You don’t need to cut off the leaves, as they will crisp up nicely in the oven. Cut the cauliflower into golf-ball-sized pieces or in whatever shape you want – no need to be terribly accurate here, as the smallish bits will crisp up, while the thicker pieces will provide a juicy contrast. Win-win. 

3. Place the cauliflower on the baking sheet and drizzle the oil over it. Toss the cauliflower a little with the oil and then set the sheet in the oven. Bake for about 40 minutes, by which time the edges of the cauliflower will be lightly golden.

4. While the cauliflower is roasting, mix together the rest of the ingredients, except for the scallions. Remove the cauliflower from the oven at the end of the 40 minutes, toss it with this sauce, and return the sheet to the over for another 15 minutes or so. You want lots of crispiness going on in there, believe me, but no burning, so keep an eye on things. When it’s done to your liking, toss with the scallions and serve immediately. 

Bull's Eye Brand

Notes

The only brand of Chinese satay sauce worth buying in my humble opinion in Bull’s Head from Taiwan, which says it’s “barbecue sauce” on the label. Don’t believe them – it’s satay. 

This brand has three varieties: traditional (clear lid, which tells you there’s dried seafood in it), vegetarian (green lid), and Sichuan seasoning (red lid). All are good. Use whatever variety you prefer. Keep this in a cool pantry, where it will stay perfect for quite a few months.

Spring roll lasagna chez Huang

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My mother used to make lasagna with dried noodles, which she would carefully boil until al dente before layering them into the pan with an assortment of fillings. And it was good.

Then someone said you didn’t need to boil the noodles first, that the sauce in the pan would cook them perfectly. And they were right. Those were even better.

Then fresh pasta came along and turned lasagna a couple of degrees more divine because of the lush texture that only freshly made noodles can provide.

And then I wanted lasagna one day, really bad, and didn’t have either dried or fresh lasagna noodles, and didn’t really want to go to the trouble of making homemade pasta. Yes, it’s definitely worth the trouble. But once in a while you just have to let laziness win, for sometimes - just sometimes - laziness leads to delicious things because lazy people are inventors. (That’s my excuse, anyway.)

Frozen (L) and fresh (R)

So I started rooting around. The pantry yielded zip by way of alternatives, but wait a minute, there in the back of the freezer was a package of spring rolls. And what are spring rolls but really thin egg pasta? I did some hasty calculations, realized it would work, and got everything ready.

If you have homemade marinara sauce ready, go with that for sure. But I write mainly about China’s foods for my job, so I rarely go to that bother. Instead, I generally have jars of Paul Newman or something sitting around for whenever spaghetti sauce is needed.

And so you see, the point of this exercise is to use whatever is available. If you don’t have ricotta cheese, try crème fraîche or drained cottage cheese. No mozzarella? Use some other mild cheese that looks good to you. Not a meat eater? No problem: sub in sautéed mushrooms.

Think of lasagna as a way to effortlessly clean out the refrigerator and pantry. But always, always have those spring rolls ready in the freezer. Try this and you’ll see what I mean.

Whereas some lasagnas can come across as leaden or overly starchy, this one is light and airy. That thin pasta absorbs the marinara as it cooks, turning into gentle wisps that glide between whatever filling strikes your fancy. This is also a great way to prepare ahead on the weekend, since it can easily be frozen and reheated. This is a winner.

Spring roll lasagna chez Huang

Huángjiā kăo qiāncéngmiàn 黃家烤千層麵

Italian via a short detour in China

Sausage & onions

Serves 6 to 8

1 (11 ounce | 312 g, or so) package frozen spring rolls, Wei Chuan brand recommended (see Tips)

Spray oil

1 bunch fresh spinach

2 (28 ounce | 737 g or so) jars of prepared marinara sauce, whatever flavor and brand you prefer

12 ounces | 340 g Italian sausages of any flavor or brand, crumbled or thinly sliced

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

5 cloves garlic, chopped

3 hardboiled eggs, sliced

1½ cups | 400 g ricotta cheese, whole milk preferred

80 ounces | 225 g whole-milk mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

1 cup | 80 g coarsely grated Parmesan cheese

Ricotta, mozzarella, & eggs

1. Set the unopened package of spring rolls on the counter to gently defrost while you prepare everything. Line an 11-cup | 2-liter pan with parchment paper or foil, extending the paper or foil up the sides by about 1 inch | 2 cm, as this will give you even more room for the lasagna. Spray the paper or foil with oil and set the pan on a baking sheet. Arrange a rack in the center of your oven and set it to 400°F | 200°C.

2. Cut off the ends of the spinach and soak it in warm water while you prepare the rest of the ingredients, as this will help loosen any soil. Swish it around in the water, changing the water as needed, until absolutely every grain of grit has been dislodged. Shake the spinach dry, shred it thinly, and microwave big handfuls of it at a time in a heatproof bowl for 1 minutes. Squeeze the liquid out of the spinach and set it in a work bowl. Repeat with the rest of the spinach.

3. Set a pan over medium heat and fry the sausage until most of the fat has been rendered. Drain off the fat, add the olive oil and onions, and fry these until the onions are translucent. Add the garlic and continue to fry until the sausage is borderline crispy.

Scrunched up wrappers

4. Spread a thin layer of the marinara sauce in the pan. Place 2 spring roll sheets on top of the marinara sauce, scrunching them up a bit to make them fit so that they do not overlap. Spread another layer of marinara sauce on the sheets and add some of the meat and onion mixture, then a layer of spring rolls, then marinara sauce, then eggs, then spring rolls, then marinara sauce, then ricotta cheese, then spring rolls, then marinara sauce, then spinach and mozzarella cheese, then spring rolls… in other words, just keep layering things into the pan in whatever order you like. The only thing you need to do, really, is top the spring rolls with marinara sauce, as this turns the noodles soft and silky. You probably will have 25 spring roll sheets in all, so make the top layer out of 3 scrunched-up sheets topped with marinara sauce, and then sprinkle the Parmesan over the top. You probably won’t use all of the marinara sauce, so don’t push it. Make sure all of the spring rolls are carefully dabbed with the sauce, as otherwise those bits will turn hard and inedible.

5. Bake the lasagna uncovered on the baking sheet for 35 to 40 minutes, at which point the top will be browned and the sauce will be bubbling around the edges. Rest the lasagna for 15 to 20 minutes to give the pasta time to absorb the sauce, for this will make cutting and serving it a whole lot less sloppy. Cut the lasagna into squares as desired. Leftovers can be refrigerated and heated up in the microwave. You can also make this ahead of time and bake it for about 30 minutes, then cool it and freeze the lasagna. To reheat the lasagna, defrost it overnight in the refrigerator, and then cook as directed above for another 15 minutes or so, until hot all the way through.

Marco Polo lasagna

Tips

Spring roll wrappers and egg roll wrappers are pretty much the same thing, with the egg roll ones generally a little bit thicker. Use whatever you like.

I recommend frozen over fresh ones since the latter can go bad, and you rarely have an opportunity to notice that until you open it up, or at least that has been my experience. Plus, frozen spring roll wrappers are ready whenever you need them. Hurray for that.

Beautiful burdock, Taiwanese style

This is truly home-style food in Taiwan, the sort of thing a doting grandma might prepare for a weekday dinner. 

It’s very simple, very easy, and such a wonderful combination of meat and vegetables that you will really need little more than a bowl of rice to find yourself perfectly satisfied.

Burdock can be found in most East Asian markets in the produce section. 

Old school stores will have the whole root ready for you in sawdust-filled boxes, while supermarkets will prefer to cut these whip-sized taproots down into smaller pieces that will fit onto trays. Either way is fine.

A whole burdock root

The Chinese call this vegetable niubang and the Japanese refer to it as gobo. When you buy burdock, lightly press it all over. It should feel hard and solid, which meats that it’s fresh and juicy. These do dry out over time, though, so look at the wispy bottom end, if it’s there, and if you see shriveling, pay particular attention to how heavy and full the rest of the root is. Sometimes the roots will be a dark brown, and other times they will have a beige skin. Both are fine.

When you get the root home, don’t store it on the counter, as it will dry out fast. Instead, cut it into lengths and wrap it in moist paper towels before refrigerating it in a plastic bag.

Most likely a riff on the Japanese kinpira gobo, this Taiwanese version is much more fully flavored, as it is laced with thin strips of beef and a deeper-hued sauce. 

Cut-up burdock

To my mind the dish ends up being heartier and satisfying this way, but then again, I’m a dedicated carnivore. If you want to leave out the meat, do what I do when serving this to veggie friends: use vegetarian beef. Really, even I can barely taste the difference when a good brand is used!

As for the beef, I like to get a small piece of steak for this. Anything will do, just as long as it’s not too fatty or full of connective tissue. Plus, this requires such a small amount that you can splurge and it won’t even hurt.

And finally, you’ll see that you will have to work on your julienning skills here. But it’s worth it. This dish is designed to be a colorful tangle of confetti. Making everything the same size guarantees a variety of flavors and textures in each mouthful. Plus, don’t leave out the toasted sesame seeds. That’s the definitive Taiwanese touch here, and it adds a lovely nutty layer to this beloved classic.

Burdock matchsticks

Stir-fried burdock and beef

Níubàng chăo níuròu 牛蒡炒牛肉

Taiwan

Serves 4

Beef:

4 ounces | 100 g boneless beefsteak (see headnotes)

3 tablespoons mild rice wine (Taiwan Mijiu)

1 tablespoon regular soy sauce

The rest:

1 burdock root (about 1 pound | 450g)

Cool water, optional

Half a lemon or 1 tablespoon pale vinegar, optional

1 medium carrot (about 2 ounces | 50 g)

1 green onion, trimmed

Vegetable matchsticks

¼ cup | 15 g julienned fresh ginger

¼ cup peanut or vegetable oil, divided in half

¼ cup | 60 ml water, divided in half

2 tablespoons mild rice wine (Taiwan Mijiu)

3 tablespoons regular soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1. Before you get started, place the beef in the freezer for around 30 minutes to firm it up and make it easy to slice.

2. Rinse the burdock and use a potato peeler to remove the skin. Cut out any dark or soft spots. Chop the root into 2-inch | 5-cm lengths, and then cut each piece into thin matchsticks or julienne. If you are not cooking the burdock immediately, place in a bowl, cover it with cool water, and squeeze in half a lemon or a tablespoon of pale vinegar. Peel the carrot and cut it into matchsticks approximately the same size as the burdock; as carrots won’t oxidize, they don’t need to be covered with water. Cut the green onion into pretty much the same size julienne, too.

Beef matchsticks - notice a theme?

3. Cut the beef into matchsticks about the same size as the julienned burdock. Toss it with 3 tablespoons mild rice wine and 1 tablespoon regular soy sauce. Let it marinate for at least 15 minutes.

4. Set a wok over medium-high heat. As soon as the metal starts to smoke, drizzle in half the oil. Add the ginger and stir it around over the heat to release its fragrance, and then add the beef, but reserve the marinade. As soon as the beef has begun to brown, scrape everything out into a small work bowl.

5. Drain the burdock and rinse it in a colander before shaking it dry. Return the wok to the heat and add the other half of the oil. Swirl it around and then add the burdock. Stir-fry it for a few seconds, and then add half of the water. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil. Stir the burdock occasionally, and when most of the water has evaporated, add the rest. Continue to cool the burdock until all the water has evaporated again, then stir-fry it until the burdock is tender and golden on the edges, about 10 minutes total cooking time.

Grandma food

6. Turn the heat back up to medium-high and add the carrots. Stir-fry for around a minute before tossing in the green onions, beef, the leftover marinade, 2 tablespoons rice wine, 3 tablespoons regular soy sauce, and the sugar. 

7. Keep tossing the sauce with the meat and vegetables until it creates a shiny slick on them and most of the moisture has evaporated. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Scrape everything out onto a serving place and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve hot.

Dry-fried string beans + a Mother's Day card

I know, St. Patrick's Day has barely come and gone, but you know what? Mother's Day will be here soon. And if you love your mom as much as you love dim sum (and you know you do), then have I got a suggestion for you!

Papyrus commissioned me to make them a Mother's Day card with a dim sum theme, and how could I resist? 

You can most likely find this in your neighborhood card shop, but if not, it's available here, too. I love Papyrus's stationery, so this was a dream come true. So give her a card and treat her to the perfect brunch. And then apologize for that thing that happened, you know the one I'm talking about...

*   *   * 

To my way of thinking, there is only one divine way to eat string beans, and that is dry-fried. The problem is that these sometimes can be nigh on impossible to find, even in a good Sichuan style restaurant.

That’s because nowadays too many cooks are skipping the first step, the most important step, the one that turns these beany flavored green things into olive strips of silk. Instead, they plunk down a plate of what can only be described as stir-fried beans, and if they really want me to see red, they’ll toss in some zhacai (Sichuan pickled tuber) and chile sauce and call it a day. This sort of thing will put me into a major funk for at least a couple of hours.

Fry 'em up!

So, what’s the first step? The beans are washed and carefully dried, and then they are deep-fried until the skins are blistered and the interiors have turned soft and squishy. And if you taste them at this point, you may think to yourself that these are ok, but nothing to write home about.

That is where the sauce comes in. Once the beans have been turned a toasty brown, they are then stir-fried in a savory sauce that gets sucked up by these now thirsty beans. But wait, there’s more: a genuine dish of dry-fried string beans will be robed with yácài 芽菜, a type of preserved mustard green (kind of like a pickle) from Sichuan.

Yacai is a terrific ingredient you should get to know, for it has a darkly savory flavor, a touch of piquance, and (something really unusual for salty preserved things) a super silky texture. And that is what is going to make this dish particularly delicious. You will be tossing in what will seem like a whole lot of yacai, and yet it will turn around and cosset each of the beans so that there is yet another layer of texture in here.

So good...

Yacai is becoming increasingly easy to hunt down in Chinese markets; just head to the pickle aisle, where they will usually be waiting for you in a small cardboard box. They will be either whole or chopped—get whatever you want. Their flavor and texture really is a game changer, as you will probably already noted in that noodle dish from a couple weeks back.

Also like that noodle recipe, this dish is heavily influenced by the cuisine of Yibin, a city in the southwestern corner of Sichuan. It straddles the headwaters of the Yangtze River and is just a stone’s throw from Yunnan Province. In other words, you should expect to eat really, really well here, and of course you do. 

Every Yibin dish I’ve ever devoured has offered wonderful textures and flavors. Nothing overwhelming to spoil my reverie, just a balanced symphony that makes me smile. And so, you should put finding a box of yacai at the top of your To Do list.

Yacai, chile peppers, garlic, & ginger

Frying the string beans ahead of time is highly recommended. That way you can have everything cleaned up and your wok ready for the quick braise. I let the blistered beans cool off and then stick them into a resealable plastic bag. Then, from fridge to table requires only a few minutes.

A note for the nerds out there: This recipe uses a character you won’t run across every day: biān 煸. This is used almost exclusively in Sichuan cooking and refers to quickly stir-frying. It’s usually found in two verb combinations: gānbiān 幹煸 (dry-fried, as in today’s recipe, where only a bit of oil is used in the final step) or biānchăo 煸炒 (stir-fried, with the wok set on the heat before oil is added, and then the ingredients are flash-fried).

Leftovers are good, too. I even eat this cold, like leftover pizza. Don't judge.

 

Dry your trimmed beans

Dry-fried string beans

Gānbiān sìjìdòu 乾煸四季豆

Sichuan

Serves 4

Around 1  pound | 500 g fresh string beans

Frying oil, as needed

4 ounces | 100 g good quality ground pork or turkey, optional

½ cup | 50 g finely chopped yacai

4 dried Thai chiles

3 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons mild rice wine (Taiwan Mijiu)

2 teaspoons regular soy sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Chop the meat until fluffy

½ teaspoon sugar

1. Rinse the beans and remove the stem ends, but leave them whole, if you like, and I like. Use a terry towel to rub off as much water as possible, since this will explode once it hits hot oil. Really now, get them totally dry. Have a spatter screen, a slotted spoon ready, and a clean medium work bowl ready.

2. First fry the beans: Set your wok over medium-high heat. Pour in about 1 inch | 2 cm oil. As soon as the oil starts to shimmer, insert a chopstick into the oil—it should be covered with dancing bubbles. Slide in a small handful of the beans. You don’t want too many, as these will fry up more evenly and quickly if you do this in smaller amounts. Adjust the heat as needed and stir the beans around as they fry. When they are browned and slightly crispy, use your slotted spoon to remove them to the work bowl. Repeat with the rest of the beans until all of them have been fried. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the oil.

Readying the sauce

3. If you are using meat in this dish, first use the back of a heavy knife or two to chop it back and forth, up and down, as this lightens the meat and improves the texture. Rinse the yacai and squeeze it dry. If it is not already finely chopped, do so now. Break the chiles in half and shake out the seeds before tearing the chiles into smallish pieces.

4. Now fry the meat and other ingredients: Set the wok back over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the optional meat, as well as the yacai, chiles, green onions, ginger, and garlic. Stir-fry these until the meat begins to brown. Add the rest of the ingredients, as well as the fried string beans. Turn the heat up to high and toss these all together until the sauce has been absorbed. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.