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A charming idea such as this stood little
chance of remaining a local secret, and although it most likely was created in
the capital city of Jinan back during the Ming dynasty, it gradually made its
way to Shanghai, Tianjin, and Beijing, where it appeared on the Qianlong
emperor’s table in the mid-Qing dynasty.
A recipe that has been
around as long as this one has will naturally have many variations. We have had
this served to us in Muslim-style restaurants as a sort of omelet with slices
of tofu suspended inside, for example, and these are a lot like dishes of
comfort food.
To my mind, though, nothing
can beat this version, which tastes like a touch of the great seaports of
Shanghai or Tianjin thanks to the dried shrimp roe.
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| Speckled with roe and scallions |
Also, the bean curd slices
are fried in simple yolk robes that turn crispy and light, but which are then
simmered in stock and rice wine into luxurious pillows, making them look and taste like just the thing an emperor would want set before him.
Pan-fried bean curd
Guōtā dòufu 鍋塌豆腐
Shandong
Serves 4 to 6
Serves 4 to 6
1 block firm bean curd
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cup (or so) peanut or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons regular flour
2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten with 2 teaspoons water
2 tablespoons fresh peanut or vegetable oil
2 teaspoons dried shrimp roe
2 green onions, trimmed
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
½ cup chicken stock, salted or unsalted
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| Fresh firm bean curd |
Sea salt to taste
4 leaves romaine or other crispy lettuce, optional
1. Cut the bean curd in half lengthwise and then cut it into 8 even
slices, which will give you a total of 16 slices. Lay the slices flat on a dry
tea towel and sprinkle them with the salt. Give the bean curd about 30 minutes (and
up to 2 hours in a cool kitchen) to release most of its moisture. Pat the tops
of the slices dry before you proceed.
2. Pour enough oil in a wide skillet to completely cover the bottom to a
depth of about ¼ inch. Place the skillet on medium heat. While the oil is
slowly heating up, pat the flour on all sides of the bean curd slices and then
dip them completely in the egg yolks before gently laying them down in the hot
oil so that they do not touch (you probably will have to do this in two
batches); the oil should immediately bubble up around the slices and the egg
batter should puff up without browning too quickly, so adjust the heat
accordingly. When they are golden brown on the bottom, flip them over gently
and let them brown on the other side. Remove them to a rimmed plate.
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| Fried & crispy |
3. Pour all of the oil out of the skillet, wipe it clean with a paper
towel, and add the fresh oil. Over medium heat, sprinkle in the shrimp roe and
move it around in the oil until it starts to bubble and darken, at which point
add the green onions and ginger. Stir these together for a few seconds to
release their fragrance, and then pour in the rice wine and stock. As soon as
the sauce boils, arrange the fried bean curd slices in the sauce, preferably in
a single layer. Turn the slices over once.
4. While the bean curd is simmering in the sauce, clean and wipe the
platter. If you are having company over for dinner, slice the lettuce in a thin
chiffonade (very thin pieces) and place these on the platter; a home-style meal
can omit the lettuce. As soon as the sauce has been almost completely absorbed,
arrange the bean curd slices attractively on top of the lettuce. Scrape any
sauce and aromatics on top of the slices and serve.
Tips
Of course, if you are vegetarian, just omit the shrimp roe and adjust the salt levels to compensate.
