I absolutely adore this dish.
Granted, being a California kid, I
practically grew up on Mexican dishes, so fajitas are pure
comfort food as far as I am concerned. And I have to admit that as much as I
adore the Mexican way with steak and tortillas, this version from up in the
Chinese Northwest inevitably blows me away.
There is so much in common between the two—flour
tortillas, grilled steak, barely cooked vegetables, cilantro, cumin, garlic,
and a dash of salt—that they seem like mirror images of each other.
Brilliant
ideas sometimes seem to travel across space and time in order to end up on the
plates of grateful diners. I don’t understand what wormhole allowed this to
happen, but there you are.
Go ahead, squeeze some lime in your beer. Just don’t
sneak any guacamole onto your plate.
Silk Road fajitas
Báobĭng jiān
níuròu 薄餅煎牛肉
Northwest
Serves 4
Serves 4
16 Chinese flour
tortillas (either baobing or héyèbĭng 荷葉餅) or 16 smallish
but really good Mexican tortillas
Beef:
12 ounces boneless
beef steak of any kind
2 tablespoons rice
wine (Mijiu)
½ teaspoon sea
salt
½ teaspoon ground
toasted cumin
½ teaspoon (more
or less) finely ground chilies
2 tablespoons
peanut or vegetable oil
Vegetables:
2 tablespoons
peanut or vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic,
finely chopped
1 sweet red
pepper, trimmed and cut into thin strips
3 green onions,
trimmed and julienned
1 cup coarsely
chopped cilantro
1. Prepare the wheat wrappers and grill as
directed. Place them in a clean tea towel and fold it around them to retain the
heat. When it comes time to eat, peel the wrappers apart into thin tortillas,
if you wish, or leave them as is.
2. Slice off the fat and any gristle in the steak
before cutting it against the grain into thin slices. Cut across these slices
to form strips less than ¼-inch thick. Place the steak strips in a small work
bowl and toss with the rice wine, salt, cumin, chilies, and oil. (The steak can
also be prepared earlier in the day, covered, and refrigerated so it has extra
time to marinate.)
3. About 10 minutes before serving, heat a
seasoned cast-iron frying pan over high heat. Toss in the steak and all of the
marinade. Sear the steak by allowing it to brown before flipping the strips
over. When most of the pink has disappeared and the meat has a good brown sheen,
add the garlic and red peppers. Toss these together over high. As soon as the peppers
barely start to wilt, remove the pan from the heat, and then toss in the green
onions and finally the cilantro. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve alongside
the warm tortillas.
