Jellyfish is yet
another one of those cheap, good ingredients that is beloved for its texture,
not its taste. Like tendons, sea cucumbers, swallow’s nests, and shark fins,
this is pretty close to tasteless.
It does have a wonderful squeaky texture
that goes especially well with shredded cucumbers and a spicy dressing.
The
cucumbers lighten the mix and provide a juicy note to the appetizer, as well as
slightly bitter edge from their bright green peels.
But what makes this
such a classic Hunanese dish is the vibrantly flavored dressing that coats each
strand of animal and vegetable. This appetizer really is about the sauce more
than anything else, when you get right down to it. The jellyfish and cucumbers
act more as mild foils for the spicy, sweet, sour, and savory dressing.
I have specified
“jellyfish heads” (haizhetou) here — which
are actually the fringy oral arms that cascade down from beneath the bowl-shaped
hood — while that thin hood is what the Chinese refer to as “jellyfish skin” (haizhepi). They are interchangeable, but
I just prefer the pronounced crunch of the heads.
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| Salted (L) & plumped up |
As the oceans’
health continues to decline, jellyfish have come to take over what were once
prime fishing grounds. It is time for us to take back the oceans. First step:
eat as much jellyfish as you can. And with this recipe, the task suddenly
becomes anything but onerous.
Cold tossed jellyfish
Liángbàn hǎizhétóu 涼拌海蜇頭
Hunan
Serves 4 to 6 as an
appetizer
Jellyfish and cucumbers:
8 ounces salted
jellyfish heads (see Tips)
Water as needed
Dressing:
2 tablespoons
toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons peanut
or vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic,
peeled and minced
1½ tablespoons
finely minced, peeled ginger
1 red jalapeno
pepper, seeded and minced
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| Blanched fringes appear |
The white half of 1
green onion, trimmed and minced
½ cup chicken stock
(salted or unsalted)
2 tablespoons black
vinegar
1½ tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon soy
sauce
Garnish:
2 Japanese or
Persian cucumbers, unpeeled
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 red jalapeno
pepper, seeded and finely chopped, optional
Greens of 1 green
onion
2 tablespoons finely
chopped cilantro, optional
2 tablespoons
toasted sesame seeds
1. Start this recipe
at least 3 days before you plan to serve it. Rinse the jellyfish heads and
place them in a plastic container with at least 4 inches of head room. Cover
them with around 2 inches of water, put the top on the container, and
refrigerate. Change the water twice a day, and on the morning of the third day
(or up to 1 week later), drain the jellyfish in a single layer in a sieve or colander.
Boil about a quart of water and then douse the jellyfish with it, shaking the
jellyfish around with the other hand, so that they all get blanched. This
blanching will make the fringes spread out, which lets you know that they have
cooked enough. Rinse again with cool tap water and drain. Place the jellyfish
on a cutting board and slice them into thin julienne.
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| Aromatics |
2. To make the
dressing, place a wok over medium heat. When it is hot, add the sesame oil and
swirl it around to coat the bottom third. Add the ginger, garlic, and the first
jalapeno to the oil and let them sizzle until they are very aromatic but not
yet browned. Pour in the rest of the dressing ingredients (adding the soy sauce
to taste), turn the heat to high, and bring this to a boil. Taste and adjust
the seasoning. Reduce the dressing over a full boil until it is syrupy, remove
the wok from the heat, and pour this dressing into a medium work bowl to cool
off. Chill the sauce.
3. An hour or two
before serving, prepare the cucumbers: Rinse and pat them dry, remove both
ends, and then cut them into thin shreds about the same size as the sliced
jellyfish. Place the cucumbers in a colander set in the sink and toss them with
the salt. Let the cucumbers drain while you prepare the sauce. Rinse off the
salt and lightly squeeze them dry. Refrigerate the cucumbers in a closed
container if you are not using them immediately.
4. To serve, toss
the jellyfish with the sauce, cucumbers, the optional second jalapeno, onion greens,
and cilantro together in a medium work bowl. Mound the jellyfish on small
serving plates and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve chilled.
Tips
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| Unhelpful English label |
Jellyfish are
usually sold cleaned and salted, and they are packed into clear plastic bags.
Often there is no English description on the label — just “jellyfish” — but it’s
easy to figure out what is what. The “skin” is smooth and thin, and generally
is folded up, while the “heads” are fat bits that look somewhat like beige
cauliflower florets.
Keep the sealed bag
in the refrigerator, where it will be fine for months. If you open the bag,
don’t get any water in there. Close the opened bag in a resealable plastic bag and
refrigerate it. Try to use it up within a couple of weeks. Once you try this
recipe, though, this will not prove a problem.




